All Things Sing in Buenos Aires

** Indicates a footnote ☺







Like the man who whistles to work, or waits at the bus-stop and starts singing a song in spanish because he doesn’t feel like holding it in, or the Monday nights at La Bamba de Tiempo where you are surrounded by a pure and passionate musical energy, and finally the birds that sing, not chirp, but literally sing a song at 5 in the morning….I have concluded that all things sing in Buenos Aires. **

This is the most creative, unique, artistic, city combined with a cultural sophistication. Granted, I do live in San Telmo, which is the home of all this. I love walking out on the streets and seeing random instruments just hanging out with their fellow musicians, and then you actually get used to seeing a piano in the street in preparation for a street show, or just a piano in the street for that matter...how great!

As fate would have it, I live with three other girls that share this passion and appreciation for this unique kingdom.
With the four of us, from all over the world, there is never a lack of…people that we meet, or a dull moment to be had.

“Ashley….ashley…..vamos vamos”
“Que paso?!?! Es 430 en la manana! “

(I will say this story in English, because well, its broken in Spanish….lets be honest)

“Ashley….wake up, lets go.” Says, Lisa, my tall, blonde, bold German roommate, with a twinkle in her eye and the knowledge that she knows just how to get me up and at ‘em.
“Ashley….te he he”, follows Marion. A girl from Paris in so many ways with her petite frame, exceptional style, calm sophistication, and pretty brown eyes but contradicted with her love for adventure and other culture outside her own.
“What the heck are you guys doing?”, I say as I lay in my moisture hot room and was fast asleep dreaming of hopefully nothing.

“Ashley….its five in the morning, the sun is about to rise and the light will be so beautiful up on Avenida 9th de Julio to take pictures!”

Are you kidding me, it’s almost five in the morning, I am asleep, this is insane, but wait….they are right!

VAMOS!

“Yay, Ashley….tu es mi mujer favorita!”

I come downstairs to see my other roommate, Flavia from Chile, still studying for her philosophy exam. She looks at me with knowing eyes, that our other two, who were out having fun, now got me out of bed…but as Flavia and I are, we just smiled at eachother in humor.

“I want to come so bad but I am not moving forward in my studies” says flavia, with her short doll-like hair barely rustled from a night of studying.

Another time Flavia.
Bueno.

We venture out to the night that is so familiar to everyone here in Buenos Aires. This city, or the country of Argentina for that matter, lives for the night. It is there center-point, where the colors become more vibrant than the natural day-light could reveal.

“Wow…look at the plaza!”, exclaims Lisa.

The Plaza we live on, usually swamped with artists, people drinking at the café’s, tango dancers, tourists, wondering eyes never to be forgotten here in Buenos Aires, with the exception of a group of guys sitting off the numerous drinks they may have consumed, was completely empty. No chairs out for the restaurants, no artists pondering there next vision…just a few hyper yellow blossoms floating to the ground from a few of the various tress that line the streets of Buenos Aires.











We just snapped to it and started taking pictures. Except for Lisa, who had her little camera stolen at a club here in Buenos Aires. But did this bother her? No….we were on an early morning adventure and these crowded streets had calmed to being ours. There is something so unique about walking in a chaotic city when the streets are almost bare. You feel humbled, mysterious, and at home. Because those streets are now yours…for a few minutes anyways.












First thing we did, was stop to talk to a women who came up to ask us a question. Well, they talked and I held my camera tight for my knowledge that walking these streets with such a toy is probably not the wisest decision. But what can you do?! Be scared to make every move because of the unknown? As we said goodbye to this woman, with her sad story ringing in our ears, we continued to walk in contemplation that travel and strangers bring. But then..









“Listen…listen” Says, Marion. “The bird!”

We stopped to take in her observation and became filled with wonder at what we were listening to. It was a bird that was singing her morning song. SINGING. There was a melody, a rhythm, a poetic composure of notes. Amazing….in the middle of the big city, a bird still finds a way to express herself through a harmonious song in hopes of contacting her family and bringing them comfort.

Vamos!

We must get to the grand avenue before the sun comes up!
Avenida 9th de Julio is the widest avenue in the world with a total of 110 meters across. Rather chaotic during the day but so calm in the dim of night.

“O Ashley….get a picture of the "Cartoneros".
You see cartoneros all over BA in late night and early morning.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartoneros

And of course this led to Lisa talking to him for a while….I love it.














“O man….you guys!” I say…as my nose and stomach start to recognize the smell of fresh bread being made in the morning.
“We have to stop at the corner and get a postre o pan”
Bueno.
But lets go…hurry.

"Lisa...be careful" I yell in laughter to my roomate who runs to the man
in the truck offering her flowers. And she takes them in delight and he rolls along his way.
















Finally, we made it to the avenue.
People were starting to head to work, Marion ran off with her camera and I just took it all in. With two other girls who appreciated this as much as I did….We observed as the city woke, and people started their days and their lives in a normal manner so different than the travel life that all three of us were living.



























An observation I couldn’t help but overlook was the universal pull that McDonalds has. Here are people waiting at 530 AM for the McDonalds to open. I will say that the McDonalds here serves bread and coffee for breakfast as well as the traditional menu and I have heard that the meat is much better and less processed…but who knows. Que se yo!




























After the sun had come up, and my body started to remember that it was pulled out of bed, my roommates then wanted to go to the ecological reserve to see the skyline.
My eyes started to blur and I had to pass….


But it was just one adventure, of everyday being an adventure, and listing to the songs of Buenos Aires.







** In case this wasn’t known. The typical time to eat in Buenos Aires or Argentina, is dinner at 10-1030 pm. You sit and enjoy for a while and then the night actually starts about 2 am. Most of you know how lame I can be when it comes to this, but I can do it every once in a while. Especially with Lisa slapping me everytime I want to go in early.



More Pictures of nights in BA

http://picasaweb.google.com/barnes.ashley/AdventuresInBA#

Chau Suerte....

Soy de Estados Unidos…to travel or not to travel?

Just a quick little post here.

At the moment I am in the Province of Cordoba. Last night, I arrived in Cordoba city and stayed with a girl I met in Buenos Aires. She is living with two guys from Salta (Northern Argentina) and an artist from Mexico City.
Of course, the conversation around the outside dinner table, right by the asado, with a few cervesas (beers), homemade Limoncello (Chelsea, you would have loved it) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limoncello) from their lemon tree right next to us, was a conversation to remember. As are so many cultural exchanges that take place when you travel.

As an individual from the United States, it has been an interesting time to travel. The way our country is viewed, perceived, embraced, and contemplated is rather different from when I used to travel years ago with my father. Due to various reasons such as politics, the media, and other issues that we may all be aware of, the United States may not be thought of as the same country as it was in the 80’s and 90’s. Whether these reasons are justified is not the point…. it’s just the way it is right now. Don’t get me wrong, this country has been MORE than compassionate and kind towards me. However, I can not ignore the observations I have had of other’s international opinions. I have friends from Argentina, Paris, Germany, and Chile around me constantly. My eyes have been opened even more as to how others, may perceive the United States. I won’t get to far into this discussion but we do have to remember that it is almost a trend of the media to report certain political and governmental activities that go on in the United States. And folks, what they see in their media, is different than what our media will let us see

What a monumental experience, to witness such a pivotal presidential election from another country. At first, knowing that all my friends were gathered in Grant Park, in Chicago, was rather heavy. Then a few seconds later I was like, HELLO, I am in another culture, in a great city that is highly active in the conversation of American politics, and I get to see first-hand the response to Obama winning this election. AND, my observations about Argentina and politics is not filtered by the media. It is exactly what I am looking at, in the moment, with no editing.

For all who have asked how Argentina has reacted to Obama winning…. This country loves him, and from what I can see in other international friends, the world embraces Obama with idealistic and positive arms. Que Bueno!!!

So….To travel or not to travel?

This is the thing….I speak the native language of English. And at this moment I am sitting outside, in the hills of Cordoba looking at a full moon and a lake below me, about to teach and hang out with some kids tomorrow. How fortunate and blessed am I that I can see and live in this beautiful country. However, if some of the people I meet down here want to come visit me in the States…they have to go through papers, visas, proof that they are not going to stay in the United States. And I just walked into their beautiful country with two questions that were asked out of routine as opposed to doubt about my intentions. Of course, this could lead to a whole discussion about Argentina and they way they do and don’t do things, but this is a positive post from a spoiled chica from the United States, so we will keep some perspective here. We are so fortunate to be able to experience things like this and then return to our home. Others would LOVE to spend time in the United States but it just isn’t as easy for them. When traveling, we may think that we are doing what so many do….and there is definitely a traveling club that exists within this world. When you meet others in this mentality, there is an instant connection. But don’t forget how lucky we are to have this opportunity. For others would love to fly beyond their limits, but can not, and we are so fortunate to be given a life where our flights are limitless. So if travel is a contemplation, embrace it….suerte!


I will have some pictures from Cordoba up soon.
But right now, check out some pictures from San Telmo, my neighborhood in Buenos Aires.

http://picasaweb.google.com/barnes.ashley/SanTelmoMyNeighborhoodOnSundays#

Provecho!

Time to throw some observations and details your way.
Let’s combine two of my favorite things. Food and culture.

Even though, I am presently living in a large, diverse, eclectic city, the cuisine of Argentina still maintains a distinct local character. There are many adjustments that must be made while living in another country and one of my favorite explorations is the new cuisine that is presented. This includes your daily routine with food, what to buy at a new grocery store that holds all new products. No more dried cranberries, crumbled goat cheese, good hummus (ahhhhhh), and basically everything that Trader Joe’s holds. However, HELLO meat, new sauces, fresh organic foods, street markets, unique tastes, cooking together with your roommates and enjoying a long meal with conversation. No rush. And finally…..finding new restaurants within your new kingdom!!!

Food Observations.

1) Argentine Parrilla: Meat is HUGE in Argentina and the best place to find the freshest meat (sorry if you don’t eat meat. The words “fresh” and “meat”, may sounds a little unappetizing) is at a local Parrilla. In Buenos Aires, you have a range of Parrilla’s. From fancy, clean, great décor, top selection of wine to a tiny opening in the concrete wall along your street, that contains a grill, a few beers, and a drunk local Argentine making some conversational connections while flipping fresh meat on his grill. So, a Parrilla, is where the meat is placed on this enormous grill, cooked fresh every day, and in most cases….yes….probably just came off the animal. If you like meat, you would fall in love. Not to mention, you can get a steak here and nice glass of wine
for no more $12….at a nice restaurant. For real folks.

2) Dulce de Leche- My goodness, I have died and gone to sweet heaven! For breakfast, it is very typical to have some sort of croissant, bread, or pastry….but in Argentina, these breads are served with Dulce de Leche. A softer, creamier, and all around fantastic Carmel. I am in the phase of putting this on my apples, crackers, and whatever else it taste good on which is everything (maybe even my finger sometime)

3) Mate: There is a lot of coffee here, espresso style mostly, but there is also a tea called matte that is a HUGE part of traditional Argentina. This tea is a natural energizer but can also be used in a ceremonial manner of friendship. If you are offered matte, it is a compliment that the person would like to share conversation with you. It is proper to take the mate, and drink it all. My first time of being offered Mate, I thought it would be rude to drink all of someone’s tea, so I only took a few sips. Now I know that one should drink the whole thing to show gratitude. To a great deal of Argentines, Mate is just part of their day….all day. This is a picture of how they drink Mate in Argentina.




These are just a few of the most common food observations. I asked my friend Gustavo, why the meat was so good here. In this huge country, the majority of people live in Buenos Aires Province. Yes, more than half the population. Just to note, Buenos Aires city, is different from Buenos Aires, “state”. So, it’s not like I am running around Tokyo or anything, because I live in the center city. So, with all this remaining land and agriculture, the cows here are raised to walk miles every single day, eating grass, and other varieties of fresh energy for their bodies. The result of this, are cows with strong, tender, healthy, non-hormone injected muscles.

This past weekend, I went to a small town by the name of Chascomus to work. Once again, I am reminded of how fortunate I have been to have met Lidia and Gustavo. This weekend consisted of working with some adolescents and on Saturday, a group of young kids joined us. I love working with kids.....buy my goodness. Saturday was insane....Guastavo and I were running around all day with a few seconds between activities, cooking, creating new activities, cleaning, making sure the kids didn't jump in the lagoon, trying to teach them english, and a pause to look at eachother and just start laughing at the chaos. Due to the fact that we all remained positive and light hearted, Saturday was a memorable experience. In two weeks, I will be heading to Cordoba for another weekend with “English In Action” ( and to works with teens again....phew! ). Gustavo is kind enough to let us stay at his hotel, for free…for a whole week. Amazing. Both Lidia and Gustavo are people that I have felt an instant comfort and connection to. They let me ask as many questions about this country as I may please, and love the cultural exchange of all the conversations.



My roommates and I are continuing to enjoy our international house and explorations of this city. Monday night can consist of going to a percussion show in Palermo while Tuesday nights will probably hold an outing to an amazing Tango dance club we have discovered. I love it. The other day, we walked to the market, bought a good steak and sat and ate lunch for about two hours together. Talking in Spanish ( me trying to) and enjoying our food. No rush. I am loving this aspect of the culture.

This is a picture of the girls I live with in BA.




Due to the fact it is about to be summer down here, it has been challenging to find as much work as I would like. However, patience is a HUGE virtue down here. Why? Because, my goodness, I am not in the United States anymore. Everyone takes their time, can be a little inconsistent as far as employment goes, but it all comes together…eventually. For the summer, I am looking at some other options, for I have been told that many English teachers do other things outside the city for the summer then come back in March to teach a new year. While I have this time, working more on the weekends and randomly throughout the week, I believe I am going to invest in an intensive Spanish immersion course. I know when the school year starts here, you don't exactly have a great deal of time for yourself. So, it’s possible I will be home for the holidays, back here for New Years in Mendoza, then wanting to spend time in Patagonia until the new school year starts. We shall see! I am not to worried about it though, because I have fallen in love with where I am at.

More Pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.com/barnes.ashley/ChascomusAndAFewFromBuenosAires#

Cultural Observation:
While I was at the camp with the kids today, a little girl about the age of three came running up to me in hysterics. She had lost her parents and was trying to talk through her tears. First of all, there is only so much I can say to her in Spanish. Second, what I can say is probably not the exact accent that she is used to. Anyways, I got some others and we started searching for her parents. It was really interesting how they were found. In Argentina, when a child is lost, you start walking around wherever you are, and proceed to start clapping in a calm consistent manner. Then as others in the crowd hear the clapping, they join in, and soon everyone at the campsite started to clap so that her parents would know she was found. And there you have it…she found her mom and dad. So simple, easy, collective and effective. Below is a picture of us starting to lead her back to her parents.